Getting Rats: What Every New Rat Owner Needs to Know

The First Thing: Get Two

This is non-negotiable. Rats are among the most social mammals kept as pets — they live in large colonies in the wild, sleep piled together, groom each other constantly, and communicate in complex ultrasonic vocalizations that serve social bonding functions.

A single rat is a lonely rat. The research on this is unambiguous: rats housed alone show higher stress hormones, suppressed immune function, less play behavior, and shorter lifespans than rats housed with companions.

Get at least two. Same sex (or neuter one if keeping mixed sex) to prevent unplanned pregnancies. Same age ideally, introduced as young animals — introductions of adults to established pairs or groups require a careful, gradual process.

What You Need Before They Come Home

The Cage

Minimum: 2 cubic feet per rat. For two rats, that's 4 cubic feet.

Practically speaking, this means single-level cage recommendations will be inadequate for most setups. Multi-level wire cages with solid shelving (not wire — wire floors cause foot injuries called bumblefoot) are ideal.

Popular options: Critter Nation, Midwest Critter Nation, Ferret Nation models.

What to look for:

• Multiple levels (rats love to climb)
• Solid shelves, not wire
• Bar spacing of approximately 1/2 inch (to prevent small rats from escaping or getting stuck)
• Easy access doors for cleaning

Cage placement: Not near windows (temperature fluctuation), not near heating/AC vents (drafts trigger respiratory issues), not in kitchens (cooking fumes are toxic to rat respiratory systems).

Bedding

Paper-based bedding only (Carefresh, Kaytee Clean & Cozy).

Absolute NO:

• Cedar and pine shavings — the aromatic phenols are toxic to rat livers and lungs
• Dusty products — any dust irritates the respiratory system
• Scented anything

Food

Rats are omnivores with complex nutritional needs.

Base diet: High-quality lab blocks (Oxbow Adult Rat, Mazuri Rat and Mouse). These provide balanced nutrition.

Supplement with fresh foods:

• Cooked pasta, rice, and grains
• Most vegetables (broccoli, kale, peas, corn, carrots)
• Small amounts of fruit (high sugar — treat)
• Lean protein: cooked chicken, egg, mealworms

Avoid: Citrus (kidney damage in male rats), sticky foods, high-fat treats, caffeine, alcohol.

The Overwhelming First Week

Here's something the internet doesn't warn you about enough: the first week with rats can be genuinely stressful for owners.

You're watching for signs of illness, trying not to over-handle, learning their personalities, and suddenly very aware of every sneeze and clicking sound wondering if it's the mycoplasmosis you read about. You might be second-guessing yourself constantly.

This is normal. Almost every first-time rat owner reports this. And it passes.

By week two, you'll know their personalities. By week three, they'll be climbing onto your hands the moment you open the cage. By month two, they'll be falling asleep on your chest.

PepperRat

“Day 7. They have learned that I exist at 8pm. They are starting to get it. The training is proceeding well.”

Taming and Bonding

Unlike hamsters, rats don't need nearly as long a hands-off adjustment period. You can begin gentle interaction much sooner.

Day 1-3: Let them explore the cage and adjust. Speak to them calmly. Let them see and smell you.

Day 3-7: Begin hand feeding. Sit near the open cage with treats. Let them come to you.

Week 2+: Gentle handling. Cup them in your hands, let them explore your arms and shoulders (yes, they'll go everywhere).

Rats respond well to their names. Use treats to build positive associations. Never grab from above — come from below, scoop up.

Key taming principles:

• Routine matters — interact at the same time daily
• Never punish, only redirect
• Short sessions often are better than long sessions occasionally
• Let them explore freely in a rat-proofed space (supervised free-roaming time is very enriching)

Health Basics

The Myco Reality

As covered in our respiratory infections guide, virtually all pet rats carry Mycoplasma pulmonis. It's not a question of if but when and how severely.

Find an exotic vet before you need one. Know the signs of respiratory distress.

Lifespan and What That Means

Rats typically live 2-3 years, occasionally to 4. This is both a joy and a grief — you get deep bonds and you will experience loss. Many rat owners keep multiple groups at staggered ages to help manage this.

Common Health Issues

• Respiratory infections (mycoplasmosis) — most common
• Mammary tumors — very common in females, often benign but require monitoring
• Pituitary tumors — common in older rats, causes neurological symptoms
• Ear infections — often linked to Myco
• Kidney disease — in older rats

Spay females at 6 months: Significantly reduces mammary tumor risk. Worth discussing with your vet.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Buying a cage with wire floors: Causes bumblefoot (painful foot infections).

Not cleaning often enough: Ammonia from urine causes respiratory flare-ups. Spot clean daily, full change every 3-4 days.

Housing alone: Loneliness is a genuine welfare issue.

Feeding mostly seeds and "rat mix" from pet stores: These are often nutritionally inadequate. Base diet should be lab blocks.

Ignoring early respiratory sounds: That little click is easier to treat early than a full-blown infection.